Saturday, October 12, 2013

My backyard

Today for the first time I went to take a peek in my backyard. The house where we stay is somehow build in 2 parts; the front which is finished and where we live and the back which has one unfinished apartment on the top floor and maybe 5 rooms similar to mine unfinished as well on the lower floor. It is a mess to get through all the wires and piles of rubbish but today I decided to take the challenge and here what I saw through the window's opening: That is not the prettiest view we could wish for when in the Caribbean but Haiti has a population of over 10 millions souls on a land of almost 28.000 km2 (Vancouver island is 31.000km2). Haiti is also mountainous ("Ayiti" as per the indigenous Taíno name for the island means land of high mountains), therefore wherever they are able to build they have to squeeze. And I doubt the city hall here requires much permit and inspection when someone decide to build a house :-)

Monday, October 7, 2013

The Dominican border

At the border: On the head, in a wheelborow, on a bike or a motorbike...etc any goods bought at the Dominican are brought back in Haiti to be resold. Trucks over loaded of goods and people, take the roads for different regions of Haiti. The Dominican republic and Haiti have recently held a meeting in Ouanaminthe to develop a bilateral exchange between the 2 countries. From now on the border will be open to Haitian to buy goods in the Dominican from 07:00 to 19:00. The market days are held on Monday and Friday. The border is a blessing for Haitians but a disaster for Haiti. The bilateral exchange is to me rather an unilateral exchange. The Dominicans provide the goods and the Haitians buy them. Haiti has not much to offer than the Dominicans don't have; Cheap labor would be the only thing that comes to mind when thinking about it. In Ouanaminthe, there used to be an ice factory (since the electricity is rather sparse here, most of the people in this region of Haiti rely on big blocks of ice to keep their perishable food) but for years now the factory is closed and instead of trying to get it back on, the Haitians buy their ice in the Dominican Rep. Sure it is nice that the Haitians have access to what they need but on the other side of the coin, they are totally dependent of the Dominican Rep and no sustainable economy is developed here. According to an Haitian border officer I spoke to, approximately 10 to 20 thousands people are crossing the border during market days, and after patrolling the border on regular basis I believe these numbers to be possible. It is insane, from the moment the gate opens in the morning to the moment its closes, huge waves of Haitians are literally running to the Dominican Rep, buy their goods and come back loaded like donkeys. If I had to watch the border from up in the air I imagine it would be like watching ants at work carrying loads way bigger than their body and bring it to their nest. Add to these human waves, the permanent shouting, the noise from the motorbikes exhaust as well as the fumes and the heat and you have the perfect recipe for a headache. Not a place to relax for sure ;-)

Ouanaminthe police station. Proudly renovated by Canada for info see: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/haiti-nation/NM3R7ow4zE4/7Nukarp15LoJ

Main entrance: Back: Main office: UN generator for our office: Residents of the unfinished part of the station:

Pictures (miscellaneous)

Common shack found in Haiti: People and dead goats: Pharmacie in Haiti: Either rocks, tires or even branches are used to alert motorists of a hazard on the road: PNH check point: Bags of charcoal for sale for cooking. One of the reason for Haiti deforestation problem:

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Night shift...foot patrol

Yesterday night at 20:00 the national police initiated a foot patrol. Apparently the head of the police station in Ouanaminthe wants to have that kind of patrol at least once a week in order to be seen by the population and to conduct throughout checks on motorized vehicles. Since we live on the border with the Dominican Republic, weapons, drugs and other illegal goods are being trafficked in that zone. We were 2 UNPOLs on shift, since I needed the exercise I decided to go with the foot patrol while my partner followed us with the UN vehicle. For these patrols we always have a PNH (Police National de Haiti)vehicle, a UN police vehicle as well an UN army vehicle to ensure our protection in case things would go out of control. The commissaire (the head of the police station) was among his men and walked the whole 2 hours patrol with us. I had the opportunity to talk to him regarding his needs and expectations for his police station and from our conversation I learned that the Ouanaminthe police station currently has 30 men available but in order to be able to run the police station a minimum of 50 men is required. Also a motorbike squad is required if they want to be able to catch traffickers who usually use motorbikes and go through paths in which a car is not able to compete. Another greatly needed tool for drug detection is a dog squad. The commissaire has requested these long ago and still keep on sending requests but so far all of them were fruitless. I told him I would add his comments to my report and maybe at one point something will happen. The commissaire also told me that he received flashlights for his men a while ago which is a needed tool especially in the region where streets lights are luxury the problem he never got the batteries for them. The same thing goes with electricity for the police station. In case of electricity shortage which is a daily issue here, the PNH have a generator but unfortunately not the budget to buy gas. I suggested solar panels as a alternative to which the commissaire replied the solar panels are already on the roof but the batteries they are suppose to be charging are dead. When I look at the staff shortage and the equipment the PNH are working here I can only admire them to be able to provide the service they are still able to provide. Anyway, back to the foot patrol. The PNH members walk in a fennel pattern this way if someone tries to go through the first officers without being checked the officers in the back close to their patrol vehicle are usually able to stop them and check them out. And to what I've seen yesterday, it works. We went through streets which are rather dirt roads with garbage all along the way and the smell that goes with it. People who live in shacks made of plywood boards and rusty metal roof looked at us and even seemed to enjoy the "parade". I have seen little kids naked in these shacks looking at us with their big eyes opened wide and seeing them growing in that misery I could not stop thinking how lucky my kids are to be growing in a country like Canada in a real house, with plenty of nutritious food and schools to go to. I brought candies from Canada that I tried to give discreetly to the ones close to me. Giving something here could potentially become a nightmare for the one who receive the good so it should be done carefully. Often, older kids are watching and if you give something to a younger one, it is common to see a young kid being beaten for what he just received. So he got robbed and beaten on top of that, his lucky day turns out to be a nightmare. At one point we entered a brothel and as you can expect it, it was dark, smelly with long narrow corridors with small bedrooms on both side. Some of the girls there seemed to be barely in their 20's and their clients did not seem much older for the majority of them. I felt so sorry for these girls and the path life put them on. When we returned on the street a man in his 50's came running to the commissaire and was complaining about a young man but I could not quite understand what it was about. The young man was brought to the commissaire by the PNH but then was released and the people from the street who gathered around had a good laugh. I was quite puzzled and asked the commissaire what just happened. He explained to me that the older man is the father of the younger male. The young male asked some money to his mother to buy food but instead of buying food he went in the brothel and spent all the money. The money given to the son was probably worth a week of food so no wonder the father was such in despair. Upon the release of the son, the father gave him a slap across the face that he will probably remember for a very long time. During the patrol few motorbikes were observed turning around ahead of us when seeing us, unfortunately without a motorbike squad there was nothing we could do to try to intercept them. After 2 hours walking in dirt roads, smelling garbage, smelling the fumes of the traffic and hearing the noise of the streets I was glad to return to the office to write my report. I'll try to take some pictures next time and add them to the blog just to give you a basic idea of the mess we are walking through ;-)

Friday, September 27, 2013

Home sweet home...Deja vu ???

Ok, I'm back again in Ouanaminthe. It seems like and it is actually a second start. Hopefully this time I will last longer than the previous one ;-) This week I spent it in PAP (Port-au-Prince) at the Canadian House which is the logistic base for all Canadian police officers when in mission in Haiti. I had a great time there. I was able to relax and gain some energy. During the day I was assigned some light duty tasks in an office at the Delta camp. This gave me the opportunity to meet several important people involved into the mission including the Commissioner and his assistant and to learn more about the mission and the new developments we should see in a near future which should affect the way we are working with the National Police. After 7 days of rest/work (From last Friday evening to this Friday morning) I finally had a helicopter flight back "home". I received a warm greetings by the UNPOLs and even by the local people who work for us almost like a war veteran. Now I've got to put all my stuff together and get ready to seriously get to work; already 5 weeks have past and I didn't really do anything yet. The positive side of my misfortune is that now I kind of know what's is being planned for the months/years to come and being in the region, that will give me the opportunity to evaluate what's on paper and what is actually happening in the field. Too often the two don't really match and some people in a office keep on writing beautiful plans that are just not either feasible or realistic with the reality especially far away from the capital. Just the fact of monitoring the changes here (if any) is already a full project by itself which I intend to take and eventually send some reports in the coming months with my observations. Keep on developing some relationship with the members of the national police until I get enough trust on their part to discuss what is being done by the UN and how they feel about it is also on my to do list. I think it's important to involve the National police at all level and to discuss with them their needs and expectations before handing them over a plan that might not really correspond to what they actually need to do their job. This is their country, their people and I believe their opinion is critical if we want to give them something they will be able and willing to use once we are gone. In few months from now I should have a better idea...to be continued

Saturday, September 21, 2013

A beautiful reading: http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jrcole/gibran/prophet/prophet.htm

I have the book "The prophet" from Kahlil Gibran and I really wish to share this masterpiece with you. This book contains beautiful poems from one of the greatest philosopher of our time. Find his masterpiece there: http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jrcole/gibran/prophet/prophet.htm To be use without moderation ;-)

A little gift from me to you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzpnWuk3RjU

Dengue

Since September 10th, I developed symptoms of a strong flu. At first, since I had no runny nose nor sore throat I suspected malaria. I went to the Uruguayan clinic on the 11th and was told that was a flu with a possible urinary infection for which antibiotics were given to me. The next day (12th) at night I was so sick I really thought my last hour had come. Huge head ache, with pain in all joints, the spine and the back of the neck as well as the back of the eyes. I was going from fever with profuse sweating to shivering with the feeling of not being able to warm up, vomiting & diarrhea. To memory, that was the worst lousy state I never experienced before. I returned to the Uruguayan clinic that night where a quick malaria test was performed which revealed to be negative. The Uruguayan doctor gave me a shot in order to stop the vomiting and the diarrhea which could lead to dehydration if not looked after properly. The doctor came up with the diagnostic that I was probably suffering from dengue fever. The 13th I felt a little better but I was feeling still very weak with no appetite and difficulties to have a decent sleep. The 14th, 2 Americans UNPOLs had similar symptoms therefore decision was made to drive us to the Port-a-Prince Argentinian clinic (6 hours car ride when sick with 5 people in the vehicle was not fun at all) Once at the Argentinian hospital, some testing were conducted (urine, blood, X-ray...) and the doctors came up with the same diagnostic for the 3 of us: Dengue. However, the 2 American showed much lighter symptoms and were released from hospital the next day. For me, the adventure only began. On the 15th, my pulse was very weak and my heart rate dropped below the 30 bpm. From that moment on I was asked to lay down in bed and not to get up under any circumstances even for a bathroom break. I was booked on the 16th for the UN airplane to the Santo Domingo hospital since the Argentinian hospital was limited in term of technology to ensure proper follow up and care. On the 16th in the afternoon I was taken by ambulance to the airplane and taken to the Santo Domingo hospital all strapped down to my bed even during the flight. When I arrived to Santo Domingo I was taken directly to the ICU (Intensive Care Unit) where I was given an IV in my right arm, another IV in my left arm and hooked up to a cardiogram 24/day. Remember, I'm still laying down in bed without the right to stand up. All bathroom breaks are from the bed and the shower consisted of disposable wet towels. I was given 150ml liquid by IV per hour which makes 3600 ml of liquid per 24 hour period. My best buddy was this plastic bottle I used to urinate every few hours. By the 17th I was already feeling much better but the doctors were still concern about my heart rate. I tried to explain to them that my regular heart rate was low anyway but they kept me in the ICU unit. I remained in ICU until midday of the 19th, then was transferred to a lower level. I was still given IV and monitored but not as closely as before. And that night of the 19th I was given the right to take a shower. After 5 days laying down in bed I was finally given the right to walk few meters to go for a shower, it was Christmas. I felt my legs so weak under my buddy, I had to take small steps to keep my balance. After a much needed shower I returned to my bed. I was told earlier by the doctor in charge that I could be released from hospital possibly the next day (20th) to return to Port-au-Prince where I should rest and eat well in order to get back in shape. And as told the 20th at 15:00 hrs I was given permission to get dressed and to prepare myself to go back to Port-au-Prince with the 18:00 hrs UN flight. Once landed in Port-au-Prince, I was taken to the Canadian House where I was given a meal and a bed and was told that I will have to rest for few days before even talking to return to work. So here I am, resting and enjoying being able to walk freely. This little adventure made me realize how vulnerable we are but also how lonely one can be when away from home, family and friends in difficult times. Fortunately, the Canadian solidarity I experienced while in hospital through the top of the chain of command of the Canadian contingent, my colleagues, the liaison officers, the nurse back in Canada and all the kind words from people aware of my situation kept me going without loosing hope at any time. Am I proud to be Canadian? Oh yes more than ever.